Homes From Around The World

The architectural styles of homes unique to a particular region or city are often travel icons. 

The decadent Victorian homes referred to as Painted Ladies say San Francisco as much as the Golden Gate Bridge.

Though in the same country the adobe homes of New Mexico and other parts of the Southwestern United States couldn’t be any more different than the Victorian beauties of San Francisco. Their architectural roots are Native American and the material used to build them suited to dry, hot climates. 

More than a few colonial Mexican cities have been named UNESCO World Heritage sites due in large part to their stunning architecture. This colorful casita in Guanajuato may look small from the outside but don’t be fooled. Homes of this genre regularly feature an outdoor central courtyard and are long and spacious.   

Like the casitas of Mexico, Hutong homes found in Beijing, China also appear small from the outside and feature a courtyard lifestyle.

What style home is unique to the part of the world you live in?

Palaces From Around The World

How many times when traveling have you wandered the grounds of one of the world’s palaces and wondered what it must have been line to live there? Built for nobility they have little in common with the much more modest and practical dwellings most of us call home.

You could easily spend hours wandering the large complex of Gyeongbokgung, the Palace of Shining Happiness, in Seoul. Pictured here is Geunjeongjeon, the main palace pavilion.

Located on a busy street in Jaipur in the state of Rajasthan in India, the Palace of the Winds, or Hawa Mahal, allowed for its inhabitants to see out of its windows without outsiders peering in.

Close to Beijing China’s royals spent the hot months at the Summer Palace, the size of which is a small city.

The Presidential Palace in Warsaw Poland is located on Royal Way, of course. In 1955 the Warsaw Pact was signed in this 17th century building where the president lives today.

Kensington Palace is set in Kensington Gardens and still inhabited by royals. Its staterooms are open to the public for tours.

Outdoor Cafes From Around The World

Outdoor cafes offer the traveler a place to sit, have a beverage and people watch. After exploring a new place on foot for hours they are a welcome oasis.

Venice Beach California has outstanding weather most of the year and is prime people watching territory. You can observe street performers, malcontents and the very fit and not so modest put on a constant show from the comfort of one of its many outdoor venues.

Rome has an abundance of outdoor eateries like this one in Piazza Navona. It’s refreshing not to be rushed to pay your bill long after you have emptied a cup of coffee.

Along Beijing’s Houhai Lake trendy outdoor wateringholes offer a good way to rest your feet and recharge.

The best outdoor cafes are not always in big cities. This one in San Pedro, Guatemala offers million dollar views of Lake Atitlan.

What are some of your favorite outdoor cafes at home or abroad?

Public Buses From Around The World

Taking public transport when traveling overseas is not only an economical way to get around but a great way to people watch. Public buses in many countries are also art on wheels.

I wonder what the advertisement on the side of this bus in Beijing says.

The public buses in Guatemala are brightly painted former school buses.

So are the buses in Panama City, which have been nicknamed Red Devils.

How often do you take public buses when traveling?

Iconic Squares From Around The World

Most travelers typically make their way to the major square of a big city when exploring. Here are a few of the world’s most iconic squares.

It is impossible to just walk through Marrakesh’s Djemma el-Fna. You’ll be sidetracked by performers of all sorts, colorful water sellers and at night endless rows of outdoor food stalls.

Museums, government buildings and the entrance to the Forbidden City flank Beijing’s massive Tiananmen Square.

Mexico City’s Zocalo sits on the site of the ancient Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, which was conquered by Spain centuries ago. You can still see Aztec dancers and shaman perform their ancient rituals.

St. Peter’s Square in Vatican City is where many come to see the Pope give his blessing and to take in the beauty of the Basilica of the same name.

What iconic squares of the world have you explored or would like to?

Previous Posts in this Series:
Alleys
Markets
Hats

Houhai Lake Beijing

Houhai Lake in Beijing is encircled with trendy bars and cafes. Patrons sit outside in a lounge like atmosphere or up on rooftops of two story buildings sipping cocktails. These vantage points make a nice place to people watch.

Tucked in the surrounding Hutong is a tattoo parlor that would make hipsters the world over feel at home. You will find stylish boutiques down the lanes closest to the lake as well.

Opera Singer Beijing

You’ll find performers gathered along the Long Corridor in Tiantan or Temple of Heaven Park in Beijing on just about any day.

This man was singing Chinese opera. He sang for at least an hour. Surrounding him was an enthusiastic crowd of old timers. They looked like regulars who come to watch the entertainment and socialize with one another. Further down a folk musician played traditional instruments.

The main attraction of the park may be the temple complex for which the park is named but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take time to explore the park as well.

Trendy Youth Tiananmen Square

These two were peddling amongst the throngs during rush hour along Tiananmen Square. Most everyone was riding a sturdy one speed.

Youthful trendiness made this pair stand out from the crowd. The majority of cyclists looked like weary commuters on their way home after a long day at work.

Despite statistics citing 1,000 new cars hitting the street every day bicycles are still a major mode of transport in Beijing.

This photo has been published in a book on teens in China and in a consumer magazine in Germany.

Street Scenes: Hutong Beijing

Life spills out onto the pavement in Beijing’s Hutongs (alleys). Outside storefronts and homes people sit on chairs and doorsteps working and chatting.

This corner grocer and food stand was no exception. Notice how the man and woman are wearing red arm bands. This was to commemorate National Day, when this photograph was taken.

City Icons: Beijing China

Beijing’s icons have stood for centuries.

The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is the center of attention in the Temple of Heaven complex. Built in the 1400s it burned to the ground in the 1880s and was rebuilt soon after.

Not touted in local tourist literature like the Temple of Heaven but perhaps most recognizable to people around the world is Tiananmen Gate, with its portrait of Chairman Mao. Located at the north end of the massive Tiananmen Square the Forbidden City lies just beyond it on the other side.

The Beijing Summer Olympics has created a new crop of icons. Most notable is the ultra modern National Stadium, fondly referred to as the Bird’s Nest. I wonder if it will endure the centuries as well as its elder counterparts.

Published Photographs: The Beijing Edition

Since the Beijing Olympics are less than a month away I thought I’d share some of the photographs I’ve had published in travel guidebooks in the last year. My last trip to Beijing was in November of 2005, strategically planned to photograph the city in the run up to the summer games. Publishers make selections well in advance of books going to press.

Despite the fact that it rained most of the week and much of city was covered in scaffolding I managed to come away with enough material. A lot of ground gets covered when the weather finally cooperates.

These photos are in several of the latest Beijing and China editions published by Frommer’s and Fodor’s as well as Rough Guides Wonders of the World.

From the Top: Door Forbidden City; Olympic mascot Tiananmen Square; Liulichang Market; Rickshaw drivers for tours of Hutongs; Bronze lion statue Forbidden City; Music store Liulichang Street.

Sidewalk Calligraphy Beijing

In the parks of Beijing you’ll often come across people practicing and displaying their calligraphy skills. Instead of ink and paper the paved ground is used as a canvas and water instead of ink. Some calligraphists paint in solitude while others command a small audience of assembled passer-bys.

This woman in Behai Park carefully drew in each square a separate charter using a large brush she dipped in a bucket of water. She moved up each row and started over when her brush strokes evaporated. I would love to know what she wrote. Was she simply practicing different characters or writing a verse from her favorite poem?

Street Scenes: Coal Vendor Beijing

I came across this man in one of Beijing’s, Hutongs (alleys).

He was hauling bricks of coal to sell to the residents of the traditional courtyards homes of these neighborhoods where families have lived for generations. Coal fired stoves provide heat for these residences and double for cooking.

As part of its attempt to deal with Beijing’s pollution in the run up to the Summer Olympics the government has been replacing coal stoves in Hutong communities with electric heaters. This photograph was taken more than two years ago. I wonder if this man is still in business.

Related Posts:
Hutongs Beijing China

Liulichang Street Beijing China

The architecture and atmosphere of Liulichang Street is a taste of Old Beijing. Buildings with classic sloping tiled rooftops line what is for the most part a long pedestrian lane, save a few bicycles and stray cars.

Centuries ago the area was a cultural center popular with scholars, artists and poets and its literary past remains today housing some of Beijing’s finest book stores. Liulichang gets its name (which means glazed tile factory) from kilns that once stood there producing ceramics used to build the Imperial Palace.

Liulichang is well known for its antiques and calligraphy shops as well. But there is plenty else to buy for all budgets including a wide range of handicrafts and curios that make great souvenirs or gifts. There are also some quality teashops. The western end of the street features outdoor vendors selling Cultural Revolution kitsch, Buddha statues, inexpensive ceramics and assorted bric-a-brac.

Bargaining hard is customary. Vendors expect it and prices tend to start higher here, as the market is popular with tourists. To get there take the metro to Hepingmen Station. If you take a cab ask the receptionist of your hotel to write the name in Chinese so that you can hand it to the driver. Most hotels have business cards written in Chinese and English and are happy to write your destination in Chinese on the back.

Further reading on Beijing:
Hutongs
Lama Temple
Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) Park
Door To Door Makeover Forbidden City

Hutongs Beijing China

The frenzied construction in the run up to the Beijing Summer Olympics is changing the landscape of the city. The result is the casualty of many hutongs, which are being torn down and replaced by large modern developments.

Hutongs are ancient alleyways lined by siheyuan, traditional walled courtyard homes. A part of the ancient architectural fabric that weaves Beijing together, these neighborhoods are tight knit communities—small villages within an urban setting. Many date back to the Qing dynasty sporting traditional tiled roofs while others are one-story concrete blocks built after WW II.

Walking through and getting lost in them is to step back in time. Enter one and the pace of this massive city slows down. Residents sit outside sharing gossip. Old men gather with their beloved birds in bamboo cages. Street vendors sell food. The clacking sound of a mahjong game and food vendors and garbage collectors calling out are common.

You can take a formal tour of hutongs. A popular way is via cycle rickshaws. You’ll find many drivers along Houhai Lake with its trendy bars and cafes. I suggest taking a short rickshaw ride to get your bearings followed by walking around on your own.

Another large hutong can be found across the street from the Lama Temple. It is less touristy.

If you want a more full on experience there is accommodation in these neighborhoods. In some hutongs homes have been converted into hotels and hostels.

Tearing these communities down and replacing them with modern high-rises is controversial. While the government protects some as historical relics many do not have indoor plumbing. Residents share crowded public toilets and showers. In recent years the more posh siheyuan have been bought by the wealthy and renovated into opulent gated compounds entered through large red doors.

World’s Most Densely Populated Cities

Forbes recently ran a feature on the world’s most densely populated cities. It came as no surprise that cities in the world’s most two most populated countries, China and India, showed up repeatedly.

Below are photos of the cities on the list I’ve taken. New York was no where to be found. This comes as no surprise. After returning from any of these cities Gotham always seems empty.

Checking in at No. 1 is Mumbai (Bombay) India. Below is a street scene photographed near the Gateway of India.


Taipei, Taiwan ranked 7th. This photograph is of the city center.


Shanghai, China was 10th. Here is an overview of its smoggy skyline.


Beijjng, China is in 12th place. This was taken near Tiananmen Square on National Day.


Delhi, India was 13th. With 14.3 million people even Delhi seems less crowded when compared to Mumbai.


For a list of all the cities check out the Forbes feature here.

Lama Temple Beijing China

The decadent rooftops of the Lama Temple, or Yonghe Gong in Chinese, are reason enough to visit. The active Tibetan Buddhist monastery is the city’s largest temple. It started life in the late 1600s as a residence for the emperor’s son. The son become emperor in the 1720s and moved to the Forbidden City. It became a lamasery for Tibetan and Mongolian monks in the 1740s.

The temple was closed during the Cultural Revolution and wasn’t reopened until the early 1980s.

Yonghe Gong is a busy place, popular with worshippers and visitors. It has five halls, each larger than the next. Outside its walls shops sell incense and tapes of Tibetan chants.

How To Get There
Take the subway to the Younghegong stop. If you take a taxi ask your hotel reception to write down the name of the temple in Chinese so that you can hand it to the driver. There are plenty of taxis outside the temple for your trip back. Younghe Gong is open 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily. Admission is 25 yuan.

Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) Park Beijing

It is worth it to get up early and watch what Beijingers do before breakfast in one of the city’s parks. Beijing’s largest is Tiantan, or Temple of Heaven Park, named after the Temple of Heaven complex one of the city’s most popular tourist destinations. Many tourists skip exploring the park, which surrounds the temple, but neither should be missed.

Before visiting the temple complex watch people start the day practicing various forms of exercise and meditation including tai chi, water calligraphy and the more recent, less traditional ballroom dancing.

Near the temple entrance is a pavilion where enthusiastic crowds gather around singers performing traditional Chinese opera. In a wooded area near the pavilion I found musicians playing traditional Chinese instruments where passers by joined in and belted out a song or two before getting on with their day.

The park is also a popular meeting place for Beijing’s older generations. Men play dominos and other games. Bird lovers flock together holding cages containing their beloved pets. A national pastime, you’ll also see plenty of kite flyers.

Larger than the Forbidden City, it’s easy to get lost in the park, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Still it’s a good idea to bring a map or a guidebook containing one.

The park is located in the southern part of the city in the Chongwen district and has several entrances. The easiest way to get there is by taxi which shouldn’t cost more than $4-5 from the city center.

The best time to see daily activities in full swing is 6:30-7 a.m. well before 8 a.m. when the temple complex opens. The park is open daily from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. There is an entrance fee or you can by an all inclusive ticket for the temple and park, which costs at most $4-5 during the high season. The temple complex closes at 6 p.m.

Door To Door Makeover Forbidden City Beijing China

The Imperial Palace in Beijing has by some accounts 9,000 doors. The hard earned patina of each is being scraped off and repainted one by one.

The Forbidden City is the largest palace complex in the world and parts of it are constantly under renovation in order to maintain it. But the biggest makeover in almost a century has been accelerated in recent years the first phase of which will be completed in time for the 2008 Summer Olympics. Who couldn’t use a major facelift after more than 500 years?

To enter the Forbidden City you must first past through the impressive red doors of Meridian Gate the main entrance. Supreme Harmony Gate awaits you after walking across one of the five carved marble bridges of the Golden Stream. It overlooks an immense courtyard that held up to 100,000 members of the royal audience. If you squint your eyes just so you can almost see the ghost shadows of the whispering eunuchs who served the court.

Which door in the photographs above would you prefer to open?

Beijing Summer Olympics Countdown

This week marks the one year countdown to the opening ceremonies for the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing. Building and renovation is proceeding at break-neck speed to meet the deadline. The city is undergoing a major facelift in addition to the massive construction projects underway for the facilities that will house the games.

All the major sites were already getting a makeover when I was there almost two years ago. Parts of the Forbidden City and almost all of the Temple of Heaven were under scaffolding, the bane of a travel photographer.

The last day of my trip coincided with National Day, a time when China pretty much shuts down and millions take a vacation and travel in the country. Tiananmen Square was packed, with a reported one million people descending on it in one day. It sure felt that way. The streets of New York City seemed empty for a long while after I returned.

The above photo is of the Museum of Chinese History with the countdown clock to the opening ceremonies.