Tourist Ghettos From Around The World

Cheap accommodation, hawkers, Internet cafes, watering holes, food catering to Western palates (pancakes in Asia anyone?) are part of the ecosystem that make up the world’s tourist ghettos. Backpackers who take pride in traveling independently and tour groups, whom backpackers frown upon, inhabit these enclaves side by side and often eclipse the local population.

It seems appropriate to start with the mother of all tourist ghettos – Bangkok’s Khao San road.  Nothing says Thai culture like getting your hair braided or a henna tattoo (cough).

Thamel in Nepal’s Kathmandu is one of the elder tourist ghettos in Asia. It was a destination of choice for hippies during the Flower Power era.

Saigon’s Pham Ngu Lao neighborhood is walking distance to most of the major sites in District 1.

Like its Asian brethren Calle Santander, the main tourist drag in Panajachel located on the shores of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, has all the trappings of a tourist ghetto.

It is only fair to include my own city. There is no such thing as cheap accommodation in New York City and it’s not exactly a backpacker haven. But Times Square and its surrounds is the epicenter of the tourist trade. In this scenario I do recommend pancakes at a diner for brunch if you want to eat like a local.   

How many tourist ghettos have you experienced or do you try and avoid them?  Is there a tourist ghetto where you live?

Cathedrals from around the World

Some of the most visited sites in the world are religious institutions. The world’s cathedrals are among them due to their grand architecture and history.

 
York Minster in Yorkshire, England has roots dating back to 627. Construction of the current Gothic style structure began in 1220 and was completed in 1472.

The Metropolitan Cathedral in Mexico City is the largest in Latin America. It dates from the late 16th and towers over the city's enormous square, the Zocalo.

--> Catedral de Santiago In Antigua, Guatemala has undergone many makeovers over the centuries due to earthquakes. It was established in the 1500s.

 
Saint Nicholas Cathedral is a popular tourist destination in Monaco. It is the final resting place of Princess Grace.

More than 5 million people a year visit Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City. Known locally as Saint Pats, it opened its doors in 1879.

Outdoor Cafes From Around The World

Outdoor cafes offer the traveler a place to sit, have a beverage and people watch. After exploring a new place on foot for hours they are a welcome oasis.

Venice Beach California has outstanding weather most of the year and is prime people watching territory. You can observe street performers, malcontents and the very fit and not so modest put on a constant show from the comfort of one of its many outdoor venues.

Rome has an abundance of outdoor eateries like this one in Piazza Navona. It’s refreshing not to be rushed to pay your bill long after you have emptied a cup of coffee.

Along Beijing’s Houhai Lake trendy outdoor wateringholes offer a good way to rest your feet and recharge.

The best outdoor cafes are not always in big cities. This one in San Pedro, Guatemala offers million dollar views of Lake Atitlan.

What are some of your favorite outdoor cafes at home or abroad?

Rickshaws From Around The World

Rickshaws are a quick, inexpensive way to get around some of the world’s cities. 

India has a few varieties. Cycle rickshaws are a good way to navigate the narrow lanes of Old Delhi.

But the yellow and green auto rickshaws are more suitable for New Delhi and for longer distances.

A rickshaw or tuk tuk ride up this steep hill in San Pedro La Laguna on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala would be welcomed.

Cycle rickshaws like this one parked in a Hutong in Beijing are pretty much used for tourists these days.

 In Kathmandu, Nepal cycle rickshaws like this one in Durbar Square are art on wheels.

Have you ever ridden in a rickshaw and if so where?

Iglesia y Convento de La Recolección Antigua, Guatemala

It’s hard to fathom how large the Iglesia y Convento de La Recolección must have been before an earthquake destroyed it in the 1700s little more than half a century after it was built. Located on the outskirts of Antigua, Guatemala it is one of many churches in Antigua to be destroyed by earthquakes.

Its remains are like an architectural dinosaur in terms of scale. Perhaps its massive size made it too daunting to rebuild. Some of its peers in other parts of town have been resurrected in the aftermath of earthquakes including Catedral de Santiago and La Merced Church.

The ruins, which at one time also included a convent, are located on Avenida de la Recolección about a 10-minute walk from the center of town. The catastrophic site is surrounded by serene well-manicured gardens. If you show up in the late afternoon you might even have the place to yourself.

Street Scenes: San Pedro, Guatemala

The small village of San Pedro on the shores of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala sits beneath a volcano of the same name.

Its population is mainly Mayan people. San Pedro’s tranquil setting is popular with travelers, particularly the hacky sack set. Many come here to learn Spanish or just live cheaply for a spell and enjoy the scenery.

Public Buses From Around The World

Taking public transport when traveling overseas is not only an economical way to get around but a great way to people watch. Public buses in many countries are also art on wheels.

I wonder what the advertisement on the side of this bus in Beijing says.

The public buses in Guatemala are brightly painted former school buses.

So are the buses in Panama City, which have been nicknamed Red Devils.

How often do you take public buses when traveling?

Markets From Around The World

Wandering the world’s markets can give you insight into local culture past and present. Some of the markets below have been in existence for centuries.

Maya traders travel from all around the Guatemalan highlands to sell their goods at the market in Chichicastenango twice a week.

You have to bargain hard in the labyrinth of Marrakesh’s souks.

There are probably more fakes than originals at the Dongtai Road market in Shanghai, China but you can still find an abundance of communist kitsch.

Shopping like a Roman is not expensive at Rome’s Camp De Fiori market.

I’ll just cut to the chase and zero in on the bling in Dubai’s Gold Market.

Guatemala’s Patron Saint of Gamblers And Drunks

How many saints do you know who openly welcome copious amounts of alcohol and tobacco? In the village of San Andres Itzapa, Guatemala just a short drive from Antigua is a shrine dedicated to San Simon. Part Catholic saint and part Mayan god his worshippers pray to him for fertility and prosperity.

San Simon also has a reputation for being the patron saint of gamblers and drunks. Devotees leave offerings of alcohol and tobacco (cash is good too) to appease him.

In the village small fires smolder in the courtyard outside a concrete building painted a deep red. Inside a life size wooden figure of San Simon dressed in conquistador fashions sits on top of an altar. Incense and candles burn on tables. If you look closely you can see he is partly covered in plastic. Devotees sometimes spit alcohol and coca-cola on him as a way to ask for his blessings.

San Simon goes by Maximon in other parts of the country. You’ll see small wooden folk art statues of him for sale in Guatemala’s markets.

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Maximon, Santiago Atitlan

Catedral de Santiago Antigua Guatemala

Like many of Antigua, Guatemala’s landmark buildings the Catedral de Santiago has undergone numerous unplanned makeovers. Established in the 1500s it has endured earthquakes throughout the centuries. The beautiful facade contrasts with a modest interior. The details were forever lost following rebuilding.

Catedral de Santiago overlooks the heart of Antigua, Parque Central. Horse drawn carriages clip clop along the cobblestone streets surrounding the plaza, where locals and visitors put plenty of benches to good use under the shade of trees.

Shoe shiners seek out potential customers while Maya women sell textiles to tourists. After dark just as the mariachi bands start playing they head home on buses to the villages they call home.

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La Merced Church

Iglesia De Santo Tomas Chichicastenango Guatemala: The Steps

Sunday on the steep steps of Iglesia De Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango Guatemala is not a subdued experience. Sitting on them it was hard to figure out what to observe first— worshippers burning small fires and incense, Maya women selling bundles of flowers, their children playing nearby or the bustling market at its feet.

Elderly women huddle together draped in blankets to keep warm in the early morning hours. Below them traders carry large bundles of goods expertly wrapped in beautiful hand woven blankets.

Iglesia De Santo Tomas is a perfect example of religious fusion in Guatemala. Although the church is Catholic ancient Maya beliefs prevail. Its steps serve as an altar where devotees pray and chant while swinging containers full of smoking incense leaving a surreal haze. Some place small offerings of flowers and corn inside the large wooden doors of the church.

If you find yourself in Chi Chi to visit the market, try and go on a Sunday when the church steps are in full swing. You are likely to see colorful processions of prayers leaders parading through the market and up the steps.

Related Reading:
Chichicastenango Market Guatemala
Maximon, Santiago Atitlan Guatemala

Portraits: Maya Woman Lake Atitlan Guatemala

The portrait of this Maya woman was taken in Santa Catarina a small village on the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.

She was selling beautiful woven textiles, like the ones you see her wearing and was kind enough to pose for this photograph. Many Mayan women make a living selling hand woven textiles. Her clothing is specific to her village. In Santa Catarina the blue and geometric pattern was introduced in the 1980s, replacing a predominantly red design.

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Traditional Mayan Textiles

City Icons: Antigua Guatemala

Antigua’s icon is a sleeping giant. And you don’t want to wake it up.

Dominating this small charming city’s landscape is the 12,000+ feet Vulcan Agua. You can see it from virtually any of Antigua’s many cobblestone streets.

Fortunately the volcano, one of three surrounding Antigua, has not erupted since the 1600s. Its cousins are Vulcan Acatenango and Vulcan Fuego. The latter is still active and erupts regularly.

You can hike up Vulcan Aqua but if you do it's best to take a guide as muggings do occur. It takes about 4-5 hours to ascend. I’m told the climb is strenuous but doable for most in reasonable shape. When climbing volcanoes wearing sturdy footwear is a must. Volcanic rock will shred the soles of your shoes like a misshapen cheese grater.

Chichicastenango Market Guatemala

Twice a week Maya traders gather to sell their goods in Chichicastenango at one of Guatemala’s premier indigenous markets. Crafts from the highlands, food stalls and every day items can all be found under the tarp covered stalls set up on a cobblestone square.

The market is a textile lover’s dream. Vivid, multi-hued hand woven blankets, embroidered cloth, and traditional clothing hang everywhere. There is also a large bustling indoor produce market on one side of the square worth checking out.

I suggest going early in the morning to take in all the market has to offer before it gets really crowded. Take a long lunch and return in the afternoon to purchase goods you have scouted out just before traders pack up. Prices are more likely to come down at the end of the trading day. Be prepared to bargain.

The market is held every Thursday and Sunday. Of the two days Sunday has increased activity on the steps of Iglesia De Santo Tomas. The church overlooks the square where the market is held. Rituals, the result of the religious fusion of Maya beliefs and Catholicism, are performed on the steep steps. Small fires burn and devotees swing small tin containers with smoking incense while they pray. If you are lucky you might see colorful processions of prayer leaders.

Traditional Mayan Textiles Guatemala

Does your clothing reveal where you are from? The traditional woven textiles worn by the Maya in the highlands of Guatemala define their regional identity. Woven and embroidered most often in cotton each pattern and color combination distinguishes a particular village or community.

Women wear a combination of garments. The most prominent is the huipile (a tunic) pictured below. This huipile is from Chichicastenango, which is famous for its market where Maya traders sell their goods twice a week.

The tzutes (a rectangular piece of cloth) in the following photograph are from Santa Catarina Palopó a village located on the shores of Lake Atitlán. In Santa Catarina they are worn over the shoulder. The blue and geometric pattern of this village is relatively new, dating from the 1980s. Previously the local attire was predominately red.

An excellent source for Mayan textiles is Nim Po’t in Antigua. I purchased the huipile from there. I bought the tzutes directly from a woman in Santa Catarina who was selling them during a festival we stumbled upon. I’ll write more about the festival later on.

La Merced Church Antigua Guatemala

After being destroyed twice by earthquakes the Merced Church in Antigua, Guatemala was resurrected in 1767. The yellow and white Baroque façade looks like an elaborately decorated cake.


Like all of the churches and cathedrals in Antigua the interior by comparison is modest. When Antigua lost its capital status to Guatemala City following another earthquake in 1773, its more decadent interior details were moved to a church in that city.

The Merced Church’s low, squat bell towers built to better withstand earthquakes are typical of Antigua.

Produce Market Chichicastenango Guatemala

The produce market in Chichicastenango Guatemala is a dazzling display of goodness from the earth.


Even more eye catching are the Maya people dressed in traditional textiles.


Here you see women carefully choosing tomatoes. They are not abnormally large, produce on testosterone. You also won’t find overpriced organic here.

Wholefoods eat your heart out.

Corn And The Maya Guatemala

You are what you eat has an entirely different meaning for the Maya. The corn they have cultivated for thousands of years is not only a staple in every meal it is an identity and the basis of the Mayan civilization. They are people of the corn and consider the rest of us wheat people.

The Maya believe the Gods made several attempts to create people before they got it right. The first attempt was animals, the second a person made out of mud, followed by people carved from wood. The final and successful attempt was creating people from maize.

Everywhere we went in Guatemala there were cornfields. Some of the fields went on as far as the eye could see while others were small plots in the back garden of someone’s home at the end of a dead end road. The golden patches in the hillsides you see in the photograph are cornfields carved into the steep terrain of the surrounding volcanic landscape of Lake Atitlan.

Public Buses Guatemala

The public buses in Guatemala are a colorful affair. They are on their second lease in life having started out as school buses in the U.S.

Art on wheels, each is meticulously repainted and often named after saints or women. We spotted several Esmeralda’s.

The transport has been nicknamed chicken buses by gringos who have shared seats with poultry toting passengers. Larger cargo without a heartbeat is piled on top.

Volcanoes reflect in rear view mirrors of the buses traversing the highlands. Drivers navigate the winding mountain roads at break neck speed passing all other traffic along the way with complete confidence or abandon depending on your point of view.

Maximon, Santiago Atitlan Guatemala

The man in the black sombrero and large tie likes to drink and smoke. Meet Maximon. He lives in the village of Santiago on the shores of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala.

Maximon is a deity or saint found in the highlands of Guatemala. A product of the religious fusion of Catholicism and the beliefs of the Maya, he is thought to be part Maya god, Spanish conquistador and saint. He also goes by the name San Simon (Spanish) and Rilaj Maam (Mayan) in other parts of the country. It is proper protocol to leave him offerings of cigarettes and alcohol if you visit him to pray and ask for blessings.

In Santiago Maximon comes out once a year during Semana Santa or Holy Week when he is paraded in the streets. The rest of the year he resides in one of his attendant’s homes. We found him in a small building down a narrow alley in a dark room with a dirt floor where he stood in the middle.

It is easy to visit him. Children in Santiago will approach you and offer to take you to him for a few quetzals, Guatemala’s currency.